When it comes to skin care, collagen is essential. Naturally present in our body, it is a major active ingredient in the fight against the signs of aging. But as we get older, unfortunately collagen quantity decreases. Today, there are solutions to boost collagen production and effectively reduce the premature aging of our skin, one of them being the Derma Roller.
What is collagen and what is it for?
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body (around 6% of our weight). It is a structural component of bones, muscles, tendons and ligaments. It is also an essential component of the dermis (75% of the dry weight of the skin), the deep layer of the skin, which is covered by the epidermis (superficial layer). Collagen is the foundation of the firmness, elasticity and youthfulness of our skin.
The word collagen comes from the Greek 'kólla' which means glue, which is quite justified since collagen provides a solid structure to our organism thanks to its connection and solidity functions.
There are several types of collagen. The "Type 1" is the one that makes up about 90% of the collagen in our body and is the one found in our skin.
It is produced by fibroblasts, cells present in the dermis. The older we get, the more the number of fibroblasts tends to decrease and so does the amount of collagen. Our skin becomes thinner, loses its elasticity and wrinkles appear.
Loss of collagen
In our 30's, our skin's collagen levels naturally decline by 1 to 2% each year. At 50, we have already lost nearly a quarter of the amount of available collagen. With less collagen, our skin gradually loses its structure, wrinkles appear and our face starts to sag.
Moreover, during menopause, the total loss of estrogen, which stimulated the synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers, will accentuate the skin aging process.
In addition to the natural aging of our skin, certain factors accelerate the loss of collagen, for example:
-prolonged exposure to the sun,
-diets high in sugar.
The structure of our skin
Even if we only see the top layer of our skin, it is, in fact, made up of 3 layers:
Collagen acts as a solid foundation that enables the top layer of our skin (the epidermis) to glow as well as to be smooth and firm.
As collagen is produced in the dermis, it is therefore necessary to act in depth in order to stimulate its production. Working on the epidermis is absolutely not enough.
How to increase the production of collagen?
Collagen is the foundation of our whole body and of our skin. Without it, our skin wrinkles and sags .
Today, there are various ways to stimulate the collagen production for example: -cosmetic procedures done by a professional (IPL, Chemical peels, microneedling, bio stimulators… ), -use of retinoids cream, -add some supplements to your diet. We will dedicate a full article on this topic because just take some collagen supplements won’t assure you to increase your collagen production. Some other components are necessary. -Derma Roller.
in this article, we will talk about the Derma Roller as it is easy to use and also very effective. Since collagen "lives" in the middle layer of the skin, the roller will stimulate it without effort nor difficulty.
Microneedling with a Derma Roller
Microneedling uses dozens of tiny needles that makes tiny holes in our skin with a tool called a Derma Roller.
Studies have shown that with 4 microneedling sessions per month, the skin increases its collagen content by 400%.
How does microneedling work?
When done correctly, microneedling creates controlled 'wounds' on the skin that lead to superficial damage thus triggering the body's healing response:
-Your skin releases substances that stimulate its growth,
-New blood vessels are formed,
-Your skin begins to produce more collagen,
-Within the next 5 days, the collagen produced comes in the treated area which makes your skin firmer, improves your complexion, gradually reduces scars and hyperpigmentation.
How to choose the right Derma Roller?
There are a wide variety of needle lengths, widths and materials. Here are some indications to guide you in your choice :
- Make sure your Derma Roller is made with surgical steel needles and that they are between 0.5mm and 1.0mm in length no more! Preferably 0.5 mm for the face.
- The amount and length of needles vary depending on the amount of skin you are covering. For example, a low number of short needles will be used on the face, while longer needles can be used on the body and chest.
-Beware, the use of a Derma Roller that is not well manufactured is a potential risk to your health.
Personally, I use the Derma Roller sold by my Face Yoga teacher Fumiko Takatsu, founder of The Face Yoga Method. This Derma Roller uses FDA approved technology. In addition, it has 2 removable heads which allows use on the face and body. You can find it on her website.
How to use your Derma Roller?
The Derma Roller should be used on cleansed and dry skin.
Before using it, disinfect it with alcohol or a disinfectant spray. You can put it under water to remove excess alcohol before you start using it.
You can also disinfect it after your session and let it dry.
It should be used on small parts of the face or body one after the other. For example, you can start with the chin, then continue on the cheeks, dividing them into 3 parts, then on the nose, temples, forehead, always dividing it into several parts.
It is not recommended for beginners to use the Derma Roller on the eyelids or under the eyes. The skin of the eyes being the thinnest on our body, it is necessary to be a seasoned Derma Roller practitioner to adapt the pression and the speed accordingly. It is an intermediate to advanced natural skincare, so take your time, go at your pace and don’t hurt yourself!
On your face, you can use the roller : - Horizontally, - Vertically, - Diagonally to the right, - Diagonally to the left.
You can do each movement a few times or just stick to one motion. You need to adapt the movements with your sensations, your skin reactivity and how you feel in your body. In fact, it is possible that you want to spend more time on a part of your face because the Derma Roller will also help release tensions and activate the meridians running on your face. It is also a very good way to help your body to activate the stagnant qi with the Face Mapping.
After you've finished, you can apply your skincare products as you normally would. It is better to avoid applying a cream including retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid) after a Derma Roller session but rather some hydrating and soothing cream, hyaluronic acid is okay. The Derma Roller can be used up to 4 times a month, or once a week. For sensitive or reactive skin like mine, I suggest starting once every 2 weeks and see how your skin reacts.
Results you can see quickly! Within 60 days of use, you will see significant improvements, including: 1- Reduction of deep wrinkles and fine lines, 2- Reduction of acne scars and stretch marks, 3- Reduction of hyperpigmentation, 4- Improvement of the texture and tone of your skin, 5- Better efficiency of your skincare products, 6- Can help reduce hair loss (if you use the Derma Roller over your head). The Derma Roller is perfect for almost all skin types and if used correctly, will become one of your favorite beauty tool!